Nestled in the heart of Covent Garden, the skylit atrium of the NoMad Restaurant sets the stage for a culinary journey through time—a journey that culminates in the quintessential British tradition of the Sunday roast. As I sat amidst the trendy ambiance, surrounded by the echoes of The Cure’s “In Between Days,” I couldn’t help but reflect on how much has changed since my first encounter with London in 1986.
Before me lay a plate adorned with rosy beef slices, accompanied by a Yorkshire pudding stuffed with watercress and horseradish-tinged short rib—a far cry from the traditional roasts of yesteryears. The cast iron pan brimmed with charred carrots, turnips, and Brussels sprouts, while a bowl of crispy, fat-roasted potatoes awaited exploration, all served alongside a small jug of thick brown gravy. With each tender bite of the meat, a sense of jubilation enveloped me, transporting me back to the streets of London where my love affair with the city first began.
In the decades since, my biennial pilgrimages across the pond have become a cherished tradition—a ritual that celebrates not just the city’s rich tapestry of culture and history but also its culinary evolution. The Sunday roast, once synonymous with familial gatherings and cozy pub lunches, now finds itself reimagined in the vibrant landscape of contemporary London.
Gone are the days when the roast was reserved solely for meat enthusiasts. Today, inclusivity reigns supreme, with options ranging from roasted monkfish at the center of the plate to miso-marinated celeriac in butter sauce and wood-charred leeks with whipped almond and olive oil vichyssoise, catering to vegetarians and vegans alike. The very essence of the roast has evolved to embrace diversity, reflecting the dynamic spirit of modern-day London.
As I glanced at my friend’s plate, adorned with a sumptuous array of options, I marveled at how far the humble Sunday roast has come. From its humble roots to its contemporary reinterpretations, the roast stands as a testament to the city’s ever-changing culinary landscape—a fusion of tradition and innovation that mirrors the dynamic pulse of London itself.
In the eclectic array of starters, from cured salmon topped with sea vegetable tempura to pickled carrot tartare crowned with a raw quail’s egg, I found echoes of a city in constant flux—a city that embraces the past while embracing the future with open arms.
In the skylit atrium of the NoMad Restaurant, surrounded by the whispers of history and the buzz of modernity, I rediscovered not just the essence of the Sunday roast but the enduring spirit of London—a city that continues to captivate and inspire, one bite at a time.
